Bighorn Climbers' Coalition

The Bighorn Climbers’ Coalition is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving, protecting and promoting access to climbing resources in the Bighorn Mountains and Bighorn Basin of Wyoming.

USFS Updates for Climbs in the Ten Sleep Canyon Area

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Due to the visual impact of red padlocks on the rock climbing resource within Ten Sleep Canyon, the USDA Forest Service has removed all known padlocks and the hangers they lock from those particular climbs. Unauthorized chopping of bolts, tampering, or altering of established climbs will not be tolerated on the Bighorn National Forest.

Due to the heavy manufacturing (egregiously drilled or chipped holds on blank sections of rock, large amounts of glue, obvious tool marks) of holds, entire climbs, and entire crags in Ten Sleep Canyon, the rock climbing areas known as Funky Town and Trump Tower, along with their respective trails, are no longer open to climbing or travel. Further investigation by the USFS of manufactured routes and areas will continue to determine what future action may be required.

The USFS would also like to remind all climbers and developers that constructing new climbing routes or trails on the Bighorn National Forest is prohibited. Your cooperation will only enhance and protect the natural resources, and help ensure Ten Sleep Canyon and the Bighorn National Forest will remain a special place for sport climbing into the future.

Trump Tower

Trump Tower is located near the bottom of the old road. The parking area is at a telephone pole below a collection of huge boulders and with an obvious pink streaked waterfall above, just past the cattle gate if you’re heading west toward the fish hatchery. Heading east, if you hit the cattle gate you’ve gone too far. The trail shares the same start as the climbing areas known as Honky Tonk, Powers, and Greenland. Near the top of the trail, the trail Y’s just below the waterfall. Take a right to head toward Trump Tower and Greenland. You will arrive at a trail with wooden steps and a sign. The trail to Trump Tower and all climbs in the area are now closed to travel.

Funky Town

Funky Town is located above the switchbacks on Highway 16. Heading east it is the first pullout on the left after the runaway truck ramp. Heading west it is the last pullout on the right just before the runaway truck ramp and just before you descend the switchbacks into the lower Ten Sleep Canyon area. The trail to Funky Town and all climbs in the area are now closed to travel. Padlocks and hangers have been removed from climbs as listed, L to R.

  • Parliament 11b. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • Funkadelic 11d. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • Bop Gun 12a/Atomic Dog 11d. Both climbs share the same start. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • Jungle Boogie 11d/ Jungle Groove 11d. Both climbs share the same start. Red padlock and first three hangers removed.
  • One Nation Under Groove 11d. Red padlock and first three hangers removed.
  • Up for the down stroke 13b. First two hangers removed.
  • Give Up the Funk 13a. Red padlock and first hanger removed. Second bolt is a spinner and unreliable.
  • So Ruff, So Tuff 12d. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • Shining Star 12c. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • Genius of Love 12b. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • More Bounce to the Ounce 12d. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • Brick House 12b/ Brickzilla 11d. Share the same start. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • Boot House/ Bootzilla 12c. Share the same start. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • White Horse 12d/ White Stuff 12d. Share same start. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • Mr. Big Stuff 11c. Red padlock and first two hangers removed. Third bolt is a spinner and unreliable.
  • Super Freak 12a. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • Fantastic Voyage 11b. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • No Parking (on the Dance Floor) 11c. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • Freak-A-Zoid 12a. Red padlock and first hanger removed. Second bolt is a spinner and unreliable
  • Uptown Funk 11b. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • Mothership Connection 10c/Star Child 11a. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.
  • P-Funk 10c. Red padlock and first two hangers removed.

Valhalla

Drugs Wall

  • Drug of Choice 12a. Red padlock and first hanger removed. Route still open to climbing. Beware of first hanger missing and a pocket near that bolt, filled in.

-The following list is an update of climbs found to be altered other than as they are listed in guide books or other resources.

City Of Gold

  • Grandma Fingers 11c. Second bolt on the climb is a spinner and unreliable.

Powers Wall

  • Fat Bastard 11d. Red padlock no longer present. Reported pockets filled above third bolt, making the climb more difficult.

Firm Wall

  • Stout Bout 11d. Pockets filled on the climb and all bolts chopped
  • Firm 11c. First bolt present. All other bolts chopped.